Our recent trip to Haiti was a huge success. Since our last experience at the airport in Port-au-Prince was less than ideal, we were a bit anxious upon arrival. To our relief, things seemed much more organized than on previous visits. We entered the newly furbished terminal to the sounds of a Haitian band playing infectious Caribbean music. Although security was tight, immigration officials were quite pleasant and friendly. Another pleasant surprise awaited us as we entered the baggage area...luggage carts! Of course we traveled with only minimum luggage, but it was very convenient to be able to move about with such ease. The airport was a lot less crowded than ever before because only authorized drivers were allowed into the terminal. In fact, our driver, Jasmine was unable to enter the building. As we approached the customs desk we realized that the crowds of "porters" and beggars were waiting outside the doors. As we exited the terminal, we saw Jasmine's friendly smile. The voices of the porters, the smell of the country, the sound of Creole...we had once again arrived in Haiti. We could barely contain our excitement.

The ride to our hotel in Petion-Ville (suburb just outside of Port-au-Prince) was uneventful. Unfortunately the road conditions were as bad as we had remembered. There was also quite a bit of traffic so Jasmine took us via a "shortcut" (his words) to avoid the delay. We arrived at The Villa Creole and it was as lovely as ever. The wide open lobby with its tropical plants and open air decor felt like home, and for the next six days it was! It is important for me to mention that the staff at this hotel is beyond wonderful. Anyone who has ever visited Haiti will attest to the friendly and accommodating nature of Haitians, and the staff at the Villa Creole is superb. Even though language was a bit of a struggle, their English and our Creole, we enjoyed their sense of humor and looked forward to speaking with them whenever possible.

Our days began quite early. We ate breakfast at 8:30 am, poolside and under the huge almond tree. These breakfasts were

actually strategy sessions to decide what galleries or artists we would visit that day, what kinds of artwork we should pursue and most importantly where we were eating dinner! Although we rarely agreed on much and at times the discussions were quite boisterous, one thing was certain: we all wanted to spend as much time selecting and purchasing as much of the rich Haitian art as possible. The days were long and hot as we searched through galleries for pieces we thought would be pleasing to you, our customers. Occasionally we were fortunate to find a piece that would enhance our own private collections. One of these "prizes" was a painting by Wilson Bigaud that found a home above my piano!

While most people associate Haitian art with "primitive" or "naive art" many of the current artists are painting in a sophisticated or contemporary style. Their work is beautiful. When you tour the galleries make sure to look up such artists as, Gary Channel, Jean Bernard Etienne and Calixte Henry. Etienne paints portraits of little girls with the biggest brown eyes that sparkle and jump off the canvas. Henri uses color in a unique fashion. The background colors contrast rather than compliment the subjects. His canvasses are uncluttered and his style is one of simplicity. The result is a painting that is soft and pleasing to the eye. Channel is one of the new artists painting in a photo-realistic style. His paintings reflect Haitian life as it is today. Other artists that paint in the "naive" or primitive style use primary colors that catch your eye. Some favorites of mine are Jacques Valmidor, Etienne Chavannes and Alexandre Gregoire.

As we rode through the countryside we quickly realized that many things had not changed. The infrastructure is in chaos. Roads deteriorate and are not repaired. Electricity is erratic, the water is not safe to drink and sewerage runs in the streets. Garbage rots in the streets until the pile gets high enough and then it is burned.

The worst thing is the poverty. When much of the population survives on less than one dollar a day life is very hard. Crime has become a part of the people's everyday life, illiteracy and hunger are commonplace. For the average citizen the future is bleak. Even during daylight hours gangs menace communities and bring fear to people already struggling to survive. We have no answers to the problems of the people of Haiti. We hope that the newly formed police force and the government can rebuild this country and provide the people with a safe, healthy life and a stable economy.

Our trip was coming to an end. We sat on the verandah drinking Prestige, (Haitian beer) nibbling on tiny nuts and admiring the artwork and the crafts we would be taking home. Haiti is a land of mystery, a land that draws you in, a land that once you visit you will always long to revisit. Part of that mystery lies in the people. Haitians are a proud and dignified people. They are friendly, hospitable and when it comes to art exceptionally talented! Hopefully as we present to you their handiwork, you will come to appreciate them as we do.

To read about our 1999 trip click here.
To read about our 2000 trip click here